GMT vs chronograph

Baltic describes the Miyota 9075 as a true GMT, in a 39.5mm, 200m case with a sapphire crystal and a sapphire 24-hour bezel.

Sold direct; we earn nothing on this link.

Baltic states the Miyota 9075 is a true GMT — the local hour hand jumps independently — which is rare at this level. Add a double-domed sapphire crystal, a sapphire 24-hour bezel, a screwed crown and 200m in a 39.5mm case. Sold direct; we earn nothing on it.

A caller GMT on the 4R34, on the same $176 published overhaul as a three-hand 4R, in a 39.4mm field case.

Hardlex, and 13.6mm thick.

Identical movement and identical service cost to the SSK001 in a case 3mm narrower. If the 42.5mm SSK001 is too much watch, this is the same purchase in a size more wrists can carry.

The same 4R34 and $176 overhaul in a 42.5mm case with a 46mm lug-to-lug.

Hardlex, on a 22mm strap.

The 4R34 is a caller GMT — the 24-hour hand is the one you set, not the local hand — but it is a real mechanical second time zone on a movement whose service price Seiko publishes.

A Swiss quartz chronograph with sapphire, 100m and an end-of-life battery indicator — a chronograph without mechanical service costs.

45mm across.

Tissot publishes a US service price list, which almost no chronograph maker at this level does, and PowerDrive drives the hands back to zero electronically instead of through a column wheel. Cheap to keep, and 45mm across.

A solar chronograph with sapphire, 100m and a power-reserve indicator; Seiko lists V-series service at $163.

The 21mm lug width is the annoyance.

Seiko lists V-series solar service at $163 — cheaper than a 4R36 overhaul and far cheaper than a mechanical chronograph. The 21mm lug width is the annoyance: standard straps come in 20 and 22.