
What a watch actually costs to keep
Published service intervals and prices, computed over 10 and 20 years. The number nobody else publishes.

Guides
The reasoning behind every pick on this site. Start with what a watch costs to keep — it is the number nobody else publishes.
The roundups on this site tell you what to buy. These pages tell you why, and they are where the actual work is. If you only read one, read what a watch costs to keep — it is the arithmetic that none of the ten competitor pages we analyzed before building this site publishes at all.
Three specifications account for most of the difference between a watch that looks good in 2046 and one that does not, and all three are decided at the point of purchase and never afterwards: the crystal, the case metal, and the water resistance rating. There is a guide for each, and they are short because the answers are not complicated once somebody states them plainly.
Every page in this section

Published service intervals and prices, computed over 10 and 20 years. The number nobody else publishes.

Buy it for life
The criteria for a forty-year watch, then eight that meet them. The flagship page here.
Top pick
Seiko Prospex Alpinist SPB317J1
Keep Score 9.6/10
We earn nothing on this link. Seiko sells it directly.

Buy it for life
Seven watches that survive a strict buy-it-for-life test, and why most don't.
Top pick
Seiko Prospex Alpinist SPB317J1
Keep Score 9.6/10
We earn nothing on this link. Seiko sells it directly.

Most durable
Crystal, case, water resistance, crown — the four specs that decide durability, ranked.
Top pick
Seiko Prospex Alpinist SPB317J1
Keep Score 9.6/10
We earn nothing on this link. Seiko sells it directly.

For beginners
A first watch chosen on checkable specs, with the jargon explained as it comes up.
Top pick
Orient Kamasu RA-AA0004E39B
Keep Score 9.0/10
#ad Affiliate link · Price as of October 23, 2026

Four crystal materials compared on the things that matter over twenty years.

Weight, hardness, allergies and coatings — what actually separates the two metals.

What 30m, 100m and 200m actually permit — and why the rating degrades with age.

Movement, accuracy, warranty, service price and parts — compared on published figures.

Nine checks, ordered by reliability. Start with the spec sheet, not the movement.

For small wrists
Eight watches under 48mm lug-to-lug, with the measurement that actually decides fit.
Top pick
Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm H70405130
Keep Score 8.6/10
We earn nothing on this link. Hamilton sells it directly.

Best gift
Watches worth giving — sized safely, warranted properly, no maintenance surprises.
Top pick
Seiko Prospex Alpinist SPB317J1
Keep Score 9.6/10
We earn nothing on this link. Seiko sells it directly.

Lug widths, materials and quick release — and why an integrated bracelet is a decision.

Pilot watches
Four pilot watches judged on glass, water rating and whether the movement can be rebuilt.
Top pick
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Day Date Auto 42mm H64615135
Keep Score 8.6/10
#ad Affiliate link · Price as of October 23, 2026

Solar watches
Six light-powered watches, ranked — and the honest limit of a solar module.
Top pick
Citizen Promaster Skyhawk A-T JY8078-52L
Keep Score 8.3/10
#ad Affiliate link · Price as of October 23, 2026

Titanium watches
Four titanium watches, and an honest account of what the material gives up.
Top pick
Hamilton Khaki Field Titanium Auto 42mm H70665533
Keep Score 8.6/10
#ad Affiliate link · Price as of October 23, 2026

Skeleton watches
Three openworked watches worth keeping, and the popular one we would not buy.
Top pick
Tissot Gentleman Open Heart 40mm T127.407.11.041.01
Keep Score 8.4/10
#ad Affiliate link · Price as of October 23, 2026

Automatics that fit smaller wrists
Five mechanical watches that fit a smaller wrist, judged on the usual six specifications.
Top pick
Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm H70405130
Keep Score 8.6/10
We earn nothing on this link. Hamilton sells it directly.

NATO straps
Four military-pattern straps compared on nylon thickness, steel grade and length.

Watch winders
Three winders compared on TPD, direction and power — and whether you need one.

Retirement watches
Five watches built for the thirty years after the party, ranked.
Top pick
Seiko Prospex Alpinist SPB317J1
Keep Score 9.6/10
We earn nothing on this link. Seiko sells it directly.

Graduation watches
Six first watches worth keeping, built for a decade of daily wear.
Top pick
Orient Kamasu RA-AA0004E39B
Keep Score 9.0/10
#ad Affiliate link · Price as of October 23, 2026

Longest warranties
Every brand's stated warranty and exclusions, and the best five-year watches.
Top pick
Citizen Promaster Skyhawk A-T JY8078-52L
Keep Score 8.3/10
#ad Affiliate link · Price as of October 23, 2026

Gifts for watch lovers
Straps, a winder, and the gift of a paid-for service — for someone who owns watches.

Dive watch straps
Rubber, silicone, MN and NATO dive straps compared on what actually lasts in water.

Quick-release straps
Tool-free straps compared, and the odd lug widths that make them hard to find.

Hiking watches
Six analog watches for the trail, judged on weight, water and what powers them.
Top pick
Hamilton Khaki Field Titanium Auto 42mm H70665533
Keep Score 8.6/10
#ad Affiliate link · Price as of October 23, 2026

Swimming watches
Five watches with the margin to swim in every day, and the one to keep dry.
Top pick
Seiko Prospex SPB453J1
Keep Score 9.6/10
We earn nothing on this link. Seiko sells it directly.

Large wrists
Six watches that fill a large wrist properly, and the one that is only thick.
Top pick
Seiko Prospex Turtle SRPE93
Keep Score 8.4/10
We earn nothing on this link. Seiko sells it directly.

Teenagers
Six first proper watches for a teenager, ranked on what survives being a teenager's.
Top pick
Seiko 5 Sports SRPG39
Keep Score 8.0/10
We earn nothing on this link. Seiko sells it directly.

Nurses
Four washable, legible watches for clinical work, and the popular one that isn't washable.
Top pick
Timex Expedition Pioneer Automatic 41mm TW2Y87400
Keep Score 8.0/10
#ad Affiliate link · Price as of October 23, 2026

Top pick
Hamilton Khaki Field Auto 38mm H70455533
Keep Score 8.6/10
#ad Affiliate link · Price as of October 23, 2026

Top pick
Baltic Aquascaphe GMT MK-II
Keep Score 8.4/10
We earn nothing on this link. Baltic sells it directly.

Top pick
Seiko Prospex SPB453J1
Keep Score 9.6/10
We earn nothing on this link. Seiko sells it directly.

Top pick
Seiko Prospex Alpinist SPB317J1
Keep Score 9.6/10
We earn nothing on this link. Seiko sells it directly.

Top pick
Hamilton Khaki Field Titanium Auto 42mm H70665533
Keep Score 8.6/10
#ad Affiliate link · Price as of October 23, 2026

Top pick
Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm H69439931
Keep Score 8.1/10
#ad Affiliate link · Price as of October 23, 2026

Three-watch collection
A diver, a field watch and a dress watch that do not overlap, plus two alternates.
Top pick
Orient Kamasu RA-AA0004E39B
Keep Score 9.0/10
#ad Affiliate link · Price as of October 23, 2026

Top pick
Seiko Prospex Alpinist SPB317J1
Keep Score 9.6/10
We earn nothing on this link. Seiko sells it directly.

Groomsmen watches
Six watches to give groomsmen, worn on the day and every day after.
Top pick
Seiko 5 Sports SRPG39
Keep Score 8.0/10
We earn nothing on this link. Seiko sells it directly.



Quartz watches
Seven quartz watches ranked, battery and solar, and the one to skip.
Top pick
Tissot Chrono XL Classic 45mm T116.617.11.047.01
Keep Score 7.9/10
#ad Affiliate link · Price as of October 23, 2026

44mm watches
Seven watches from 43mm to 45mm ranked, and the one that wears bigger still.
Top pick
Seiko Prospex Turtle SRPE93
Keep Score 8.4/10
We earn nothing on this link. Seiko sells it directly.

Anniversary watches
Six anniversary watches that will outlast the occasion, and the one to skip.
Top pick
Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB471J1
Keep Score 9.1/10
We earn nothing on this link. Seiko sells it directly.

Unisex watches
Seven watches from 35mm to 38.4mm that suit any wrist, and the one to skip.
Top pick
Hamilton Khaki Field Auto 38mm H70455533
Keep Score 8.6/10
#ad Affiliate link · Price as of October 23, 2026

Watches for moms
Six watches for a mother that survive real life, and the one to skip.
Top pick
Hamilton Khaki Field Auto 38mm H70455533
Keep Score 8.6/10
#ad Affiliate link · Price as of October 23, 2026

Vintage-style watches
Six vintage-style watches built to modern standards, and the one to skip.
Top pick
Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm H69439931
Keep Score 8.1/10
#ad Affiliate link · Price as of October 23, 2026

Leather straps
Five leather straps compared on tannery, lining, buckle grade and width range.

Lug width
Measure it in a minute, and see which watches take the awkward odd sizes.

Resale value
The honest answer about resale on affordable watches, and what to track instead.

Alloy vs steel
What "alloy" usually means, how 316L differs, and who states the grade.
Top pick
Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 40mm T137.407.11.041.00
Keep Score 8.0/10
#ad Affiliate link · Price as of October 23, 2026

One-watch collection
What one watch has to do, and the three that actually do it.
Top pick
Seiko Prospex Alpinist SPB317J1
Keep Score 9.6/10
We earn nothing on this link. Seiko sells it directly.

Two-watch collection
One tough, one smart, no overlap — four watches that build the pair.
Top pick
Seiko Prospex Alpinist SPB317J1
Keep Score 9.6/10
We earn nothing on this link. Seiko sells it directly.

Top pick
Seiko 5 Sports SRPD55
Keep Score 8.0/10
We earn nothing on this link. Seiko sells it directly.

Work watches
Four watches for job sites, and what actually breaks a watch at work.
Top pick
Timex Expedition Pioneer Automatic 41mm TW2Y87400
Keep Score 8.0/10
#ad Affiliate link · Price as of October 23, 2026

Student watches
Four watches that survive four years — and the false economy to avoid.
Top pick
Seiko 5 Sports SRPD55
Keep Score 8.0/10
We earn nothing on this link. Seiko sells it directly.

Milestone watches
Three watches worth marking a decade with, chosen to still run in thirty years.
Top pick
Seiko Prospex SPB453J1
Keep Score 9.6/10
We earn nothing on this link. Seiko sells it directly.

Cold-weather watches
Titanium, straps and what cold does to batteries — four winter picks.
Top pick
Hamilton Khaki Field Titanium Auto 42mm H70665533
Keep Score 8.6/10
#ad Affiliate link · Price as of October 23, 2026

Spring bars
Spring bars on steel grade, diameter and width — and when to replace them.

acrylic crystal watches
Why the softest crystal is the only repairable one, and the three acrylic watches worth buying.
Top pick
Timex Marlin Automatic 40mm TW2V44600
Keep Score 6.5/10
#ad Affiliate link · Price as of October 23, 2026

lume
Which makers publish the lume compound and grade, and which just say "luminous".
Top pick
Vaer C5 Recon Field Solar 40mm
Keep Score 6.9/10
We earn nothing on this link. Vaer sells it directly.

Gift buying
Fit without measuring, the lug width that makes a wrong guess fixable, and what not to buy.
Top pick
Hamilton Khaki Field Auto 38mm H70455533
Keep Score 8.6/10
#ad Affiliate link · Price as of October 23, 2026

For grandfathers
Legible dials and light-powered movements — watches that need no winding, battery or setting.
Top pick
Citizen Garrison BM8560-02X
Keep Score 7.2/10
#ad Affiliate link · Price as of October 23, 2026

Top pick
Tissot PRX 35mm Powermatic 80 T137.207.11.041.00
Keep Score 8.0/10
#ad Affiliate link · Price as of October 23, 2026
| If you are asking | Read |
|---|---|
| What will this actually cost me over twenty years? | Cost of ownership |
| Which watch will genuinely outlast me? | Watches that last a lifetime · Buy it for life |
| Which one survives the most abuse? | Most durable watches |
| I have never owned a proper watch — where do I start? | Best watches for beginners |
| Sapphire or mineral? Does it matter? | Sapphire vs mineral crystal |
| Titanium or steel? | Titanium vs stainless steel |
| What does 100m actually let me do? | Water resistance explained |
| Japanese or Swiss? | Japanese vs Swiss |
| Is this one real? | How to spot a fake watch |
| Everything is too big for my wrist | Best watches for small wrists |
| I am buying this for someone else | Best watch gifts |
| Can I change the strap? Should I? | Watch straps guide |
Every factual claim on these pages is traceable to a manufacturer document, a published ISO standard or a named source, and each page lists its sources at the bottom. Where a figure could not be sourced, the page says "not published by the manufacturer" rather than filling the gap with something plausible.
That is a slower way to write and it produces shorter guides than the category norm. It also means you can check us, which is the entire basis on which we ask you to believe anything here. The method sets out exactly what we do and do not do.
Cost of ownership, if you are choosing between a mechanical and a quartz watch — it is the arithmetic that decides it. Watches that last a lifetime, if you have already decided and want to know what to look for.
Several do, and they carry picks with buy links where the watch is available. The material guides — crystals, metals, water resistance — mostly do not, because the answer is a principle rather than a product.
Cost of ownership every six months, or immediately if a manufacturer changes service pricing. The material and comparison guides every twelve months. A page's date changes only when its content actually changes.

Published service intervals and prices, computed over 10 and 20 years. The number nobody else publishes.

The criteria for a forty-year watch, then eight that meet them. The flagship page here.

The Keep Score formula in full: six specs, fixed weights, all of it checkable.